With regard to the questions on your diagram.ġ. My trailer has a box mounted on the frame - just aft of the tongue - where the 7-pin cable comes in as well as a positive lead directly from the battery. Once you pull that down you may find an ideal location to put the shunt. The Coroplast on the underside should come off easily if it has been fastened with screws.
#Battery monitor with shunt fou rv upgrade#
The factory fuse box will remain 12 VDC, and that other fuse box will take whatever voltage I upgrade my battery bank to. I am adding some 12/24 VDC accessories that will receive power from this fuse box and not the other. The fuse box on the top right is separate from what I just mentioned. I was surprised to see a 6 AWG wire from the fuse box to the frame, and something similar from the battery negative to the frame. I think my RV DC fuse box that came with the RV is wired to the frame. I used to think the shunt had to be on the battery negative terminal, but a few days ago I had an epiphany that it only had to be the first thing on the negative circuit.Īlso, if you are putting a board like this in your travel trailer, you can always run the battery wire straight to it so you can hook to the shunt first and then send the power back to the factory ground or negative power distribution point. I spent quite a lot of time and effort trying to put it there. The batteries will go in the black tray on the bottom.Ī whole lot of reading and lot of question asking will make the shunt perfectly clear. The Shunt is on the board on the bottom right. I've got the battery cables done and many other wires to add.
0 kommentar(er)
